What does it really mean to be a Kiwi? Perhaps it’s to survive enduring rain, sing along to Dave Dobbyn, or, when all else fails, know where to find the best pies in town…

On the West Coast, you can do all three at once. Visiting the West is like going back to another era. A time before budgets and almond milk cappuccinos. When the basic things mattered most: you were warm, well fed, and surrounded by folks who liked a belly-laugh as much as you.

Haast

There are three things I remember about Haast:

1) The surreal evening sunshine that poured across the fields and mountains.

2) Arriving. After passing paddocks, a lonely pub, and a service station from the ‘80s, I thought, “there must be more to this?” There wasn’t.

3) It seemed at least 80%+ of Haast’s human population was camping at the holiday park.

Things to do: The coastal walks you’ll see signposted as you drive north on Highway 6 are superb.

👉 Sandflies can be problematic in summer, so don’t miss these tips before you go!

Fox Glacier and Franz Josef

Apparently the West Coast glaciers are a must-do. I can believe that. Still, the glowing recommendations weren’t enough to tempt me outside into the rain. It’s at least a 2 – 2.5 hour walk to reach Fox glacier, and around 40 mins to Franz Josef.

Both looked impressive from afar. Think: Rocks, mountainsides, and riverbeds. I’ll leave the review to somebody who did the walking track.

Hokitika

Hokitika is “New Zealand’s most welcoming town” according to the sticker stuck on the window of New World supermarket. And I did like Hoki.

Where else can you watch hundred-year-old eels eating salmon out of dainty silver bowls? And some of the world’s finest pounamu craftspeople at work?

Things to do in Hokitika:

• Explore Hokitika town centre and locally made pounamu jewellery (learn to identify real pounamu here). 
• Experience the 1860s’ gold rush days at Shantytown Heritage Park, a short drive from Hoki – it was a real highlight of my trip!
• Hokitika Gorge: a stunning walk past turquoise waters and ancient forest.
• Fly a kite on the famous Hokitika Beach and snap a photo near the driftwood sign.
• Kumara Junction: a cute bus shelter for photos if you’re really stretched for things to do.
• Looking for the massive eels? You’ll find them at the National Kiwi Centre. 

👉 Hokitika gets busy, especially in summer and during the Wild Foods Festival. Compare accomodation options ahead of time on Expedia here.

Greymouth

Greymouth is one of larger towns on the West Coast, pleasantly positioned by Māwhera, the Grey River. It’s a good spot to stretch your legs and stock up before you drive to the next place. I’m sure there’s more to Greymouth. I’ll write about it one day.

Things to do:

• Catch a movie or show at the historic Regent Theatre. The café serves great coffee.
• Embark on one of the historic walking trails nearby, like the Coal Creek Track.
• Salami lovers: don’t miss the Blackball Salami store a short drive away (check it’s open before you go).

Punakaiki

You can’t eat them, which slightly reduced their appeal. But the Pancake Rocks, aka. Punakaiki, did look delicious. If you like grand ocean views, whirlpools, and stacks of limestone, it’s a must-visit. The Info Centre has a cute café and shop. And yes, the café serves pancakes!

Westport

You’ve done well if you’ve reached Westport.

Not many people get that far. And many that do, never leave. I think that’s why Westport locals are so friendly. And why they look at you with these big, wondrous eyes that ask, “what’s the news from the outside?”

I enjoyed visiting the famous pie shop. It was refreshing to escape big brands and franchises. I suspect tourist cash gets stuck at Punakaiki; at least I didn’t see much of it here. Some of the houses could’ve done with a few licks of paint. Or a bulldozer. 

But, the natural beauty of Westport was something to really behold. 

On a calm sunny day, Cape Foulwind is the place to be. The shoreline sands ripple with streaks of grey and gold, completely crowdless. I recommend parking at the end of Seal Colony Road and take Cape Foulwind Walkway for sweeping views of Tauranga Bay. 

Ocean breeze. Seagulls quietly call in the distance. Bliss!

Final Thoughts: The West Coast

The thing I adore about New Zealand is that every region is unique. Whether it’s the towering mountains of Queenstown, steaming springs of Taupō, or fjords of Milford… you’re not far away from somewhere spectacular. But, there’s no doubt the West Coast has an enduring charm. Once you drive over the halfway point past Arthur’s Pass, the air changes. Nature reigns supreme, and locals seem more grounded – more in touch with what it means to live in the present. That’s why I like it.