Otago Rail Trail in Winter: The Return to Dunedin

A Winter Odyssey Day 7. Celebs, soggy tents and lingering thoughts…

Bleached skies greeted me my final morning in Middlemarch as I packed up my things. I was overwhelmed by a mixture of smug-satisfaction and sadness. Satisfaction because I could see a storm approaching and knew I’d be far, far away from here before it could catch me. Sadness because I loved this place and didn’t know when I’d visit again. I met Kate at the café and she baulked at the site of my bare toes and jandals. ‘Ahaha yea. My runners got soaked when I visited the Sutton Lake yesterday,’ I explained.

Waking up in Middlemarch. Credit: Tourist Class Travel

Beyond the High Country

On the drive, I found myself recognising each hill and dip of Highway 87. Experiencing them was certainly more pleasurable from the comfort of a vehicle, even if it was less personal than by foot! A wicked wind whistled through the window cracks and Kate commented that they were expecting snow. On Three Mile Hill, she pointed at a long driveway and gave me one of her all-knowing smiles. ‘You know, Sam Neill used to live up there when he was young.’

After an hour, we pulled up outside my residential cottage and I unloaded my things. Kate was so kind, and I sensed she was relieved to see me home safely. Her generosity has always stuck in my mind, and I have no doubt that she’ll be one of those special people I’ll remember for the rest of my life (provided I don’t get Alzheimer’s).

I thanked Kate from the bottom of my heart, gave her a hug, and presented her with the gift I’d brought at Oturehua. She seemed touched by the gesture, and I watched her car disappear down Heriot Row. My Otago Rail Trail adventure hadn’t gone to exactly to plan. But in many ways, it had turned out better than I ever imagined.

Things I wish I’d Known

Would I do the Otago Rail Trail in winter again?
Yes, absolutely! It was an amazing journey and the trip of a lifetime. In winter, you miss the crowds and experience the winter wonderland of Otago. I’m so glad I went.

But… I wouldn’t bother camping. To be honest, I would have enjoyed myself more if I hadn’t been lugging 20km of luggage. Unless you enjoy shivering yourself to sleep and hauling loads up hills, I recommend ringing ahead and booking a cosy cabin or hostel. By not carrying tents/sleeping mats etc., you’d also have more room to carry food and water which are precious commodities on the trail.

Have you read the previous segment? See: Exploring Middlemarch & Sutton

Thinking of cycling the Otago Rail Trail?

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Holly

Kia ora, I’m Holly After my first year of student-life at Otago University, I decided it was time for adventure! Since 2018 I have been lucky enough to embark on tiki-tours around NZ in my van and enjoy the amazing experiences Aotearoa has to offer. Now I’m a post-grad student who does music and art on the side… but when I have free time, I love discovering hidden gems and sharing my tips with fellow travellers 🙂

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