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Otago Rail Trail in Winter: The Return to Dunedin
A Winter Odyssey Day 7. Celebs, soggy tents and lingering thoughts…
Bleached skies greeted me my final morning in Middlemarch as I packed up my things. I was overwhelmed by a mixture of smug-satisfaction and sadness. Satisfaction because I could see a storm approaching and knew I’d be far, far away from here before it could catch me. Sadness because I loved this place and didn’t know when I’d visit again. I met Kate at the café and she baulked at the site of my bare toes and jandals. ‘Ahaha yea. My runners got soaked when I visited the Sutton Lake yesterday,’ I explained.
Beyond the High Country
On the drive, I found myself recognising each hill and dip of Highway 87. Experiencing them was certainly more pleasurable from the comfort of a vehicle, even if it was less personal than by foot! A wicked wind whistled through the window cracks and Kate commented that they were expecting snow. On Three Mile Hill, she pointed at a long driveway and gave me one of her all-knowing smiles. ‘You know, Sam Neill used to live up there when he was young.’
After an hour, we pulled up outside my residential cottage and I unloaded my things. Kate was so kind, and I sensed she was relieved to see me home safely. Her generosity has always stuck in my mind, and I have no doubt that she’ll be one of those special people I’ll remember for the rest of my life (provided I don’t get Alzheimer’s).
I thanked Kate from the bottom of my heart, gave her a hug, and presented her with the gift I’d brought at Oturehua. She seemed touched by the gesture, and I watched her car disappear down Heriot Row. My Otago Rail Trail adventure hadn’t gone to exactly to plan. But in many ways, it had turned out better than I ever imagined.
Things I wish I’d Known
Would I do the Otago Rail Trail in winter again?
Yes, absolutely! It was an amazing journey and the trip of a lifetime. In winter, you miss the crowds and experience the winter wonderland of Otago. I’m so glad I went.
But… I wouldn’t bother camping. To be honest, I would have enjoyed myself more if I hadn’t been lugging 20km of luggage. Unless you enjoy shivering yourself to sleep and hauling loads up hills, I recommend ringing ahead and booking a cosy cabin or hostel. By not carrying tents/sleeping mats etc., you’d also have more room to carry food and water which are precious commodities on the trail.
Have you read the previous segment? See: Exploring Middlemarch & Sutton
Thinking of cycling the Otago Rail Trail?
Make sure you check out these:
- Packing & Tips: cycling the Otago Rail Trail
- Best activities to do near Middlemarch, Otago
- Or check out the official Otago Central Trail Website here
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