The story of the Tarawera ‘phantom canoe’ that foreshadowed the deadly eruption of Mount Tarawera in 1886 is one of New Zealand’s most fascinating mysteries. Different theories have arisen over the decades. Was the sighting simply a combination of coincidence and mistaken identity? Or was it a supernatural omen, a sign of what was to come?
Tarawera and Rotomahana
New Zealand’s geothermal wonderland has a long history of attracting visitors from across the globe, and the 1860s were no exception. Tourists were fascinated by the delicate drawings of steamy hot pools and boiling geysers featured on postcards and travel magazines. Most Europeans had never seen anything quite like it. Hundreds arrived at Lake Tarawera (about 24km southeast of Rotorua) to visit the Pink and White Terraces. The Terraces, known as Otukapuarangi in Māori, were tiers of surreal hot pools that were coined ‘the eighth wonder of the world.’
Many of these tourists stayed in the Māori village of Te Wairoa at the foot of Mount Tarawera, a volcano that was believed to be extinct at the time.
The Tremors of Trouble
Te Wairoa was home to an old tohunga, Tuhoto Ariki, who was feared and disliked by some of the local Māori. He was said to be 100 years old and commanded great spiritual power as a tohunga (priest), with a special knowledge of the Māori occult. Tuhoto believed the Terraces were being exploited for tourism and money-making, and that many of his fellows involved in tourism were straying from their ancestral values. One day in 1886, he and the chief of Te Wairoa had an argument. Tempers rose, and the chief hit Tuhoto who cursed, ‘You will die, you will die, and before long something else will happen!’
Uncannily, the chief died a month later, and the Māori at Te Wairoa worried that the latter part of Tuhoto’s curse was yet to come true. The water in Lake Tarawera started to rise and fall, and locals noticed that the pools and geysers were changing.
Sightings of the Tarawera Phantom Canoe
It was the 31st of May, 1886. A group of tourists led by the famous Māori guide Sophia Hinerangi (Ngāti Ruanui) boarded a tour vessel. Sophia was bilingual and greatly respected for her wealth of knowledge.
Lake Tarawera was eerily still that morning. The black mountain peak was a ghostly outline in the mist as Sophia and her group glided across the lake. Sophia noticed something move by the shore and saw what she’d later describe as a small, one-man canoe pulling out from the lakeside. The canoe transformed; now larger and paddled by five men whose heads were shaped like those of dogs. It changed once again; this time into a sizeable war canoe with 13 men which was seen by the other tourists. Mrs. Sise, one of the passengers, described the sighting of the Māori waka (canoe):
“After sailing for some time we saw in the distance a large boat, looking glorious in the mist and the sunlight. It was full of Maoris, some standing up, and it was near enough for me to see the sun glittering on the paddles. The boat was hailed but returned no answer.”
– Mrs Sise, a passenger on the tourist vessel
Several eyewitnesses saw two rows of Māori onboard the waka. One row paddled, the other stood with their heads bowed. They wore splendid flax cloaks and were adorned with plumes of the huia and kotuku (white heron), emblems of death.
Later that day, a second canoe also reported seeing the same waka. The tourists thought it might have been part of a cultural display and were later spooked to discover that nobody around the lake claimed to own this waka. In fact, nothing of the sort had been seen on the lake for years. News spread around the village and the Māori were adamant that it was a waka wairua (spirit canoe) ferrying the spirits of the dead to Tarawera. Its sighting was an omen of impending disaster.
Tarawera Awakens
In the early hours of the 10th of June, 11 days after the sighting of the ‘phantom canoe,’ a massive earthquake woke the people of Te Wairoa. Mount Tarawera exploded and the sky turned dark. Ash, lava, and molten rock rained over the surrounding landscape. The eruption destroyed the Pink and White terraces and three villages, including Te Wairoa. At least 153 people died.
Tuhoto the old tohunga was rescued four days after the eruption, trapped in his hut that had been buried under mud. He was taken to Rotorua hospital against his wishes and died there two weeks later. Luckily, Sophia Hinerangi the tour guide sheltered along with sixty-two others in her house that had a high-pitched roof and reinforced walls, and they all survived unscathed. After the disaster, Sophia moved to Whakarewarewa reserve where she continued to work as a guide. She became the official caretaker of the reserve in 1896, known for her friendliness and philosophical take on life. Today, Sophia Street in Rotorua bears her name.
Tarawera Today & Popular Activities
While the devastating 1886 eruption has largely been shelved in the archives of history, Mount Tarawera is still active. It is impossible to predict exactly when the next eruption will next occur. Ultimately, the tale of Tarawera is a reminder that the geothermal wonderland of the North Island is not without its risks… an uncomfortable fact forgotten by tourists pouring over shiny pamphlets for spas and tours.
Attractions
- The general public is restricted from visiting the Tarawera crater. However, you can see it on approved tours.
- Visit The Buried Village of Te Wairoa, an archaeological site ‘where stories of the 1886 Mt Tarawera Eruption come to life.’ There’s a museum with relics from Te Wairoa, a café, waterfall, and scenic walking trails.
Read More
Visiting Taupō or Rotorua? You’d better read The hidden dangers of New Zealand’s thermal springs
Travelling further afield? Check out:
Awesome things to do on a budget near Taihape
Important Māori words to learn for travellers
References
Buried Village of Te Wairoa. 2015. Was the Lake Tarawera phantom canoe a supernatural sign? The Buried Village of Te Wairoa Blog. Available from: https://www.buriedvillage.co.nz/lake-tarawera-phantom-canoe [Accessed 08 February 2021]
Curnow J. 2015. Hinerangi, Sophia. Dictionary of New Zealand Biography. Te Ara – the Encyclopedia of New Zealand. Available from: https://teara.govt.nz/en/biographies/2h37/hinerangi-sophia [Accessed 8 February 2021]
Jenkin R. 1979. The phantom canoe. In: It’s a mystery; strange tales of New Zealand. Wellington: Reed Education. p.28-34.
McLintock AH. 1966. Tarawera phantom canoe. An Encyclopaedia of New Zealand. Available from: http://www.TeAra.govt.nz/en/1966/tarawera-phantom-canoe [Accessed 08 February 2021]
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